What Goes Down, Must Come Up!

by Chris 7/16/2001

Disclaimer: Do not hike rim-to-river-to-rim in a single day.

I got the idea into my head to do this hike about a year ago, when my friend Melissa told me that she had done it. The hike sounded like a perfect idea for someone who was short on time but with a penchant for adventure. I had never been any lower in the Canyon than to Cedar Ridge, a mere 940 feet (3 miles walking) below the rim on South Kaibab Trail.

Then this Spring another friend, Mike, did the unimaginable. This machine actually went from the South Rim 21.5 miles to the North Rim in a single day, and there met up with friends to begin the return trip the following day. After seeing his photos, I was hooked, and within a few short months had given in to temptation. I ordered a Grand Canyon book from Amazon.com, plotted my course, took a single day off on a Friday and drove up to the Canyon.


Mather Campground.

I pitched a tent at Mather Campground on the South Rim, and took the time to acquaint myself with the Park's fine shuttle bus system. If you go, be sure to check out the brand-new Canyon View Information Center, which is an excellent, informative resource to plan your time at the Canyon. I returned to my campsite early and went to bed.

On Saturday, I awoke at 4:00, brushed my teeth, and was off. I caught the first bus of the day at Market Plaza to Yaqui Point. There were four of us on this first run of the day, and a fifth was at the trailhead when we arrived. The forecast high on the rim was 86 degrees, but for now it was a refreshing 55. The time was 4:36 am, an hour before sunrise, but the glimmering blue light peeking over the horizon provided ample light to see the trail at least 20 feet in front of us. To look into the canyon, though, was to see nothing but a incredibly large vacuum. All we could see was a dazzling electrical storm wreaking havoc on the North Rim.


	Ooh Ahh Point at 5:00 am.

About a mile into the hike, three of us bumped into each other and discussed our respective hikes. I was heartened to learn that all of us were planning to do the same thing, to hike to the bottom and back up in the same day. I had been agonizing over whether to actually do this, since it is extremely discouraged in all Canyon literature. The only loop hike I had ever even seen in print was the South Kaibab - Tonto Trail - Bright Angel hike, which stops well above the river but provides a more manageable hike. However, I was here to see the river, and once I learned I was not alone, I was infused with bravado and continued enthusiastically.

The hike down South Kaibab was quick and very enjoyable. The Grand Canyon was beautiful, and even in my rush to avoid the coming heat I enjoyed breathtaking panoramas all around me. However, in hurrying, I was also thrusting my toes into the front of my boots with every step, and by the time I reached the bottom they were in some amount of pain. I was actually heartened to see the trail flatten out and rise, as I could now dig in with my otherwise fresh heels.


Kaibab Suspension Bridge.

The other mistake I made on the trip downward was to overpack. I had brought 100 ounces of water in my Camelbak, and two 32 oz. bottles of Gatorade in my backpack. There is ample water on the trail going up, and by the time I had reached the first water station, I had finished off one bottle of Gatorade, and nothing else. I promptly emptied the second bottle onto the ground and packed the empty container into my backpack. However, the extra weight had already taken its toll on me during the hike down. I had also brought five bananas, which was disastrous, and I'll let you figure out why.

I had descended 4780 feet over 6.3 miles to the Kaibab Suspension Bridge over the Colorado River. From here I had a two-mile walk along River Trail via the Bright Angel Suspension Bridge to the bottom of Bright Angel Trail, and the beginning of my long hike upward. The time at the bottom of the Canyon was 6:45 am, and I had beaten the sun, which was still looming below the horizon. However, as I worked my way up Bright Angel Trail, it quickly popped out. My newly-banana smeared hat was of little use to me, so I stuffed it in my Camelbak and kept moving in the heat. The temperature at the base was forecast to be 102 degrees today, and I could feel it quickly heating up. Bright Angel is reputed to benefit from large amounts of shade, but there are many, many patches of wide open sun, and it takes a serious toll on the uphill hiker.


	Colorado River.

It was 8:30 am before I reached Indian Garden, where the thermometer read 96 degrees. I was a mere 1320 feet of a total 4380 to the top, only 3.2 miles of 7.8 to the trailhead. And I was exhausted. I had pity on the people who were actually packing their tents and sleeping bags back up the canyon, however at least they had the advantage of starting at the bottom. I took a relatively long, 10 minute break in the shade at Indian Garden, and then recommenced my way up.

The last 4.6 miles of the hike were dramatically different than the rest. This area of Bright Angel is very popular for day hikes, and the higher up I went, the more the crowds thickened. As I rose in elevation, the heat backed off, but my growing fatigue outpaced it. I took breaks at increasingly short intervals, and over the last 1.5 miles stopped 4 times. I even put my now-disgusting hat on. I had read at the 1.5 mile resthouse that breaks should be taken by lying on one's back with feet elevated above the head, so at one stop I positioned myself up against a cliff for shade and positioned myself onto an irregular rock formation with my feet perched above my body. Not 15 seconds had gone by before a woman came around the bend in the trail, mistook me for a hiker than had fallen from the cliff above, and shrieked. I quickly got up and assured her I was all right, but resumed my position and soon felt rejuvenated.


Click here to watch this chipmunk steal my Powerbar.

As I had ascended, cloud cover had been thickening and made the hike much easier. By the time I reached the top, at 12:28 pm, I was sore, but not as fatigued as I had been under the beating sun. I had just enough energy to make it to the shuttle bus stop where I nearly collapsed. As I rode the shuttle bus back to the campground, a violent storm broke out, complete with thunder, lightning, and grape-sized hail. I counted my blessings that I had gotten out in time, and made a mental note to bring a poncho the next time.

The South Kaibab - River - Bright Angel Trail loop is a wonderful hike, but I do not recommend attempting it in a single day. The 16.6 miles are too many to enjoy all at once, and should be spaced over a more forgiving schedule. I plan to come out again and do it with friends this Fall, and will break it into three days, with a night at the bottom, and a second night at Indian Garden. Dayhiking below Cedar Ridge or Indian Garden is highly discouraged by the Park, and any activity that puts you at physical risk is illegal. However, when done responsibly, hiking at the Grand Canyon can be one of the most memorable, rewarding experiences you ever have. The excellent South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trails are perfect places to do this.

Related Links:
Grand Canyon Explorer
Grand Canyon National Park - National Park Service
Grand Canyon Tourism & National Park Information